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From speakeasy whiskey bars to eco-friendly innovations, Aaron Millar finds a laidback city promoting a better way of life.
Portland is happening.
In the hit series Portlandia, a wonderful parody of the city, this hip corner of northern Oregon is described as the place “where young people go to retire.” As I walk the streets of Mississippi, Hawthorne and Alberta – fringe neighbourhoods that define the bohemian spirit of this town – I can’t help but smile at how true that feels. People are out, all the time: shopping vintage, eating organic, sloshing down micro-brewed beer and fair-trade coffee. Once overshadowed by its Pacific Northwest cousins – the rose city is now in full bloom. Seattle had grunge, San Francisco has microchips, but Portland is the new capital of cool.
And the time to see it is now.
New flights from Icelandair, which launched this summer from major UK airports via Reykjavik, have made visiting the Beaver State easier and more affordable than ever before – opening a doorway to a part of the west coast often overlooked by international visitors.
Outdoors enthusiasts will love it: to the east there are wild deserted beaches, small surf towns and towering old growth rainforests. To the west, the perfect conical slopes of Mount Hood frame the city, with hiking, biking and almost year-round skiing on offer. North is the start of the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway, which traces the entire Oregon coast for 363 spectacular miles. While in the wine-lands south of the city, fertile volcanic soil and mild, moist conditions have created some of the best pinot noir this side of Burgundy.
But it’s perhaps for its eco-credentials that Portland is best known. More than 330 miles of bike paths, cycle-friendly laws and investment in bike-specific lanes, lights and even entire car-free eco-districts have turned Portland into cycling Nirvana. It’s safe, fun and the best way to explore the city. There’s a progressive public transit system too – light rail, tram and now an electric taxi firm; innovative eco-projects are springing up everywhere; small, locally owned businesses are thriving; there is a flourishing local arts and crafts scene. “This city embodies what green living is all about,” Harry Dalgaard, destination development specialist at the Oregon Travel Commission, says. Portland could be sold as the ultimate sustainable city break.
It could be the ultimate foodie break too. But it’s food carts, rather than restaurants, that define the scene. “They’ve changed the palette of people here,” Brett Burmeister, owner of Food Carts Portland, tells me as we take a tour of some of the best. “We don’t have fast food chains downtown anymore.” It’s a remarkable transformation: burgers and hot dogs have been replaced with Ethiopian stew and Moroccan mint tea. In a single hour I munch through handmade Chinese dumplings, authentic Yucatan panucho tacos, Carolina barbecue and Belgian leige waffles smothered in pearl sugar and honey. It’s like pic-n-mix for grown-ups.
Afterwards I stroll through Portland Farmer’s Market on South Park Blocks: 15,000 people, live music and 150 stalls of fresh, inspiring and downright weird locally-produced product. Need some Yak Jerky, Wasabi Arugula or Spicy Cress that genuinely burns in your mouth? They’ve got you covered. Then for dinner, a highlight: tattoos and fine dining at new restaurant Farm Spirit – an exquisite 12-course vegan tasting menu.
Craft beer fans will not be disappointed either. There are 91 microbreweries in the city, more than anywhere else in the US. I hop on a bike tour to some of the best – Hopworks, the city’s first organic eco-pub; Stormbreaker whose 11% Jean-Claud’s Quads brew nearly knocks me off my ride – and end up on the waterfront dancing to a hip hop brass band. Things like that happen here.
Downtown is fun: high street shopping, upscale galleries, theatres and museums. But the real magic happens on the east side, where the usual suburban sprawl has been replaced with a collection of vibrant, independent communities that appear to have sprung up like flowers in the pavement.
Neighbourhoods such as Hawthorne and the Alberta Arts District are filled with vintage boutiques and funky galleries, eco-cafes, trendy bars and brasseries with queues around the block. There is a blossoming uniqueness on every corner. I walk for an hour and don’t see a single chain store. It feels real, evolving and alive.
There’s lots else to do, of course: Powell’s Books, the largest independent bookstore in the US – five floors and an entire city block of paradise for bookworms; one of the best rose gardens in the world; magnificent city parks; near constant festivals; and a world-renowned music scene. But tell your clients not to rush around too much: this is a city of lounge cats, not worker bees. Eat well, work less, be green. That’s why Portland’s happening. Sounds like a good place to retire to me.
Electric dreamOregon has one of the best networks of electric vehicle charging stations in the country meaning eco-conscious travellers can now see much of the state completely emission free. Charging takes less than 20 minutes, it’s as easy as filling up with petrol and they drive exactly the same as a real car. Free app Plugshare alerts drivers to the nearest stations, helps plan routes and facilitates payment. But be aware: journeys take longer; speed, hills and AC drains the battery; and take care not to miss a charging stop. Highlight itineraries include the Oregon Coast Electric Byway and the chance to explore the wineries of the Willamette Valley. |
Book it:America As You Like It offers a seven-night holiday to Oregon, including return flights on United from Heathrow to Portland, five days’ electric vehicle rental, with accommodation in Portland and along the coast – from £1,634pp, based on two sharing. |
Lisa Chamberlain
director - UK, Travel Oregon
What are your top tips for selling Portland?
Portland is a lush, green city filled with parks, art and casual fun. It’s easy to get around, has fine culinary establishments and with no sales tax, shopping is always a deal.
Who’s the typical Portland/Oregon client?
The main age group of travellers are the 45+ group, but Portland’s cool vibe and the array of soft adventure options throughout the state are beginning to attract a younger demographic.
What’s the lowdown on flights from the UK?
There are no non-stop flights to Portland, but all major carriers service the route and Icelandair has extended its service, beginning May 11, 2016. UK connections are available from Aberdeen, Birmingham, Glasgow, London and Manchester.
Any new tour operator itineraries?
Hayes & Jarvis has a 13-day fly-drive itinerary “Pacific Northwest” from £880pp (land only) and Ski Safari has a 14-night “Last Frontier Safari” package from £1,995pp including flights.
Go to traveloregon.com, call the UK office on 01326 250213 or email oregon.uk@btinternet.co.uk
