On a warm sun-soaked March morning, I am perched atop a concrete staircase which leads down to a dusty platform. This is the Divisadero train station of Chihuahua. There is no lounge to speak of though luggage is neatly lined up alongside the tracks. Enthusiastic travellers saunter onto the rails taking group photos and selfies.
Anticipation is growing for the arrival of El Chepe Express. One of the movie stars of rail travel, the train follows a 350 km route from Creel to Los Mochis, which takes approximately 10 hours to complete. Divisadero, the second stop on this itinerary, is an epicentre for tourism in this region.
A short walk from the station are incredible views over the Barranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon), which is said to be deeper and more impressive than the Grand Canyon. Though the expanse is breathtaking, three years of drought mean that vast areas of what should be verdant vista look far sandier and windswept than I was expecting.
The Copper Canyon ZipRider is a high-altitude, high-speed flight across breathtaking scenery
The road carries onto the Divisadero Adventure Park, which features a cable car and a series of zip lines across the gaping canyons. The 2,554-metre ZipRider is one of the longest uninterrupted zip lines ever built, soaring across a vertical drop of 1,450ft.
We’re not at quite the same dizzying heights, but nevertheless our excitement levels peak as El Chepe chugs into the station. She is powered by a diesel-electric engine for coping with the ascent to higher elevations. Stewards descend to the platform and direct passengers to their seats. Comfortable though the seating is, quite soon I am on a swivel stool at the back of the train snapping pictures of fabulous and varied terrain. The Terrace Car, which is exclusively for First Class passengers, is fitted with panoramic windows – perfect for soaking up dramatic scenery.
On this day-long journey we pass over 37 bridges, through 86 tunnels and navigate a switchback near the town of Temoris, undergoing a U-turn manoeuvre to change elevation that involves moving from a higher track to a lower one. The landscapes certainly do not disappoint as we journey across the majestic Tarahumara Mountains on our way to Los Mochis, Sinaloa, which is at sea level.
The Copper Canyon route is considered a feat of railway engineering
This is the territory of the Rarámuri, Indigenous inhabitants who have made the Copper Canyon their home for thousands of years. Fabled for their endurance running skills, they are also impressively skilled in basketry and other handicrafts. While the train makes its scheduled stops, Rarámuri women approach with goods to sell.
Back in Divisadero, we had met some other local Rarámuri. The women wore colourful shawls and patterned dresses while the men dressed in white. From their village situated at the foot of the canyon, they climbed a steep track to come and dance for those of us staying at El Mirador Hotel, a historic property with spectacular views from its clifftop location.
With scant access to the outside world, the Rarámuri have held onto their traditional ways and language. They lived in caves before the arrival of tourism in the 1960s, and a few still do. Mexican visitors come to take advice from the tribe’s healing women and to try Tesgüino, a fermented corn-based drink that’s fabled in Rarámuri society.
Raramuri couple walks through Valley of the Monks in Creel, near the Copper Canyon © iStock/Kylie Nicholson
The town of Creel sits at 2,345 m and considered the gateway to the Copper Canyon National Park. It is one of Mexico’s ‘Magic Pueblos’, so christened because of long-held cultural traditions maintained there. From Creel you can hike, ride horses and take ATVs to see nearby rock formations. The most distinct of these are the Valley of the Frogs, Valley of the Monks and Valley of the Mushrooms, all bearing some resemblance to their namesakes.
Here, visitors will also find the San Ignacio Arareko Mission, a rustic stone church built as part of a Jesuit mission in the 18th century. It still serves as a place of worship and community meetings today, and – surrounded by dramatic rock formations – draws visitors in as a simple spiritual retreat.
Polo Sánchez-Valle is the UK tourism representative for the state of Chihuahua, and he tells me the rail experience is attracting more interest from UK travellers: “El Chepe Express, passing through the Copper Canyon, appeals to rail enthusiasts and travellers of all ages.
“Since its launch as a tourist train in 2018, this world-class rail journey is starting to reach an even broader audience, with UK tour operators, such as Journey Latin America, Audley Travel, Latin Routes, Cox & Kings, Jacada Travel and Steppes Travel, expanding their Mexico programmes to incorporate the Copper Canyon experience.”
Lynn travelled onboard El Chepe Express between Divisadero and Los Mochis
It’s worth noting that Creel and Divisadero lie at high altitudes so can be chilly, especially at night, and the region is subject to seasonal variations. The summer rainy season (July and August) turns the canyon lush and green for autumn, when waterfalls and rivers come to life. Temperatures drop during winter when the mountains are likely to be covered in snow. In spring, the canyons are ablaze with desert blooms such as the yellow blossoms of Chihuahuan Primroses, Prickly Pear Cactus and white flowers of the Yucca plant.
Three Mexican cities are due to host Fifa World Cup games this summer, which Sánchez-Valle hopes could inspire more Brits to explore Chihuahua: “A journey aboard El Chepe Express could be an ideal way to spend time before or after a football match, in Mexico or even North America, during the Fifa World Cup from 11 June-19 July.”
He adds: “This incredible rail journey from Creel to the coast is a powerful add-on that can enable agents to elevate a standard Mexico itinerary into a distinctive, experience-led product, whether combined with Mexico's Caribbean or Pacific coasts, Mexico City and beyond.”
When I make it to the end of my journey, how I wish I could turn around and do it all again. And so, for the benefit of agents looking to give clients an authentic experience in Northern Mexico, I'd encourage you to recommend this – you will absolutely be on the right track.
How to book it
Latin Routes offers a 13-day Copper Canyon and Baja California itinerary, which includes international flights, 11-nights' accommodation including one night in a four-berth ferry cabin crossing the Sea of Cortez; 15 meals (11 breakfasts, 1 lunch & 3 dinners); excursions as described including first class tickets for El Chepe Express between Divisadero and Los Mochis; and transfers and domestic flights as per the itinerary, from £5,439pp; latinroutes.co.uk
For more information about El Chepe Express, see chepe.mx/en
