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Visitors to the Maltese Islands are guaranteed sensational food, historical enlightenment and sun-drenched sites to boot – even in winter, discovers Madeleine Barber
Sipping on a half pint of crisp, chilled Cisk, the Maltese Islands’ local lager, I notice the tipple’s rich shade of gold matches that of the sand on Ramla Bay’s Blue Flag beach below, which stretches along the coastline not far from our picnic setting. I’m spread out on a blue gingham blanket in one of Gozo’s most secret spots for an alfresco lunch, with meat and veggie-filled paellas sizzling away behind and agents joining Aito’s 2022 “famference” reminiscing beside me about our morning spent swimming in the refreshing azure sea surrounding the Maltese archipelago.
The sun is shining, but of course it is; these islands enjoy more than 300 days of sunshine every year so it’s possible to picnic whatever month you’re visiting in. Ana Kisling, the chief executive of Gozo Picnic (gozopicnic@gmail.com), serves up her Mediterranean fare to the sound of a Gozitan guitarist, and this to her is just another day. The entrepreneur knows all the best sites on the island for picnicking and will set up spreads of meats, cheeses, vegetables, and even vegan sushi, wherever best to fulfil her customers’ desires.
In the west of this tiny island only eight miles long and four miles wide visitors will find another unique culinary experience, at Tal-Massar Winery. I’ll admit I didn’t have high hopes for its Gozitan wine tasting session since hearing winemaker Anthony say the island has “some of the poorest soils” in the archipelago and likening it to “dust”. But, he promises, this is actually ideal because it means he creates quality rather than quantity.
All three wines produced here are made by hand and I discover, as we sit beside the sun-drenched vineyard wafting fruity aromas towards our noses and swilling different wines, my favourite is the red. Named after a nearby ancient chapel, the 2019 San Mitri tastes of blackberry, vanilla, cinnamon, smoke and leather – an eclectic and moreish combination that leaves me wanting so much, I buy a bottle to bring home.
A delectable platter of cured hams, sheep cheeses and crackers put together to pair perfectly with the selected vinos has me wishing I hadn’t had that extra spoonful of paella, as the servings exceed the size expected for an afternoon experience costing just €40pp.
A hop, skip and a jump – also known as a 30-minute ferry crossing – from Gozo visitors will find the largest island of Malta and the destination’s capital city, Valletta. Continuing the famference’s eating and drinking streak, during our visit we make a beeline for The Bridge Bar, which is a local haunt famed for its outdoor seating area made up of brightly coloured cushions laid out on steep stone steps and framed by Bougainvillea, a bright-red bay window and the ancient city walls.
This aperitivo stop is the perfect precursor to an evening meal at Legligin, a cosy, candle-lit restaurant in the heart of Valletta’s old town. Seated at a rustic wooden table we delight in savouring the enormous tasting menu (it may be seven, eight, nine courses – there are so many I lose count) featuring flavourful tapas, sweet pumpkin soup, salty sea bream, octopus and mussels, bitesize squares of aubergine lasagne and Malta’s national dish, rabbit stew.
Being so transfixed by Valletta’s cuisine it’s easy to forget you’re in a destination boasting 7,000 years of enthralling history, during which Malta has been occupied by the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Knights of Saint John, Napoleon and the British Empire.
SMARTER
More than 100 festas (traditional village feasts celebrating patron saints) take place on the Maltese Islands every year, so build one of these into a client’s itinerary to give them the opportunity to mingle with and immerse themselves in the local community.
BETTER
While Valletta’s walking tours are highly recommended, opt for a tuk-tuk tour with Rolling Geeks to cover more ground. The self-guided electric vehicles, fitted with a GPS and interactive tablet, allow explorers to see the sights of and hear the history behind the Three Cities (Birgu/Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua).
FAIRER
Malta sits in the top spot on non-profit ILGA Europe’s Rainbow Map & Index, which means it’s more progressive than all other European countries, including the UK and Ireland, when it comes to respecting human rights and encouraging equality.
“The Maltese Islands are home to a number of fascinating cities to discover during the winter months,” says Tolene van der Merwe, director UK and Ireland for the Malta Tourism Authority. “Malta’s capital Valletta, officially the sunniest city in Europe, is a Unesco World Heritage Site and home to more than 320 historic monuments, which can be discovered completely on foot.”
The city also has a huge range of museums and landmarks, with Heritage Malta taking steps to enhance the visitor experience at 90 of them. One such endeavour is Taste History (tastehistory.mt), a concept whereby a talented team of historians and chefs use found kitchen inventories and butcher bills to curate a menu inspired by 18th-century recipes presented in exclusive settings. Ours is served up at the Malta Maritime Museum, where we dine on grilled veal with wilted kale, roasted thyme and olive oil – all ingredients sourced from local and sustainable producers – while encircled by seafaring artefacts each with a mesmerising story to tell.
Not only have the Maltese Islands delighted the agents on this trip and I with their gastronomic experiences, sunny cities, Blue Flag beaches and storied past, but they’ve changed our perceptions on the types of traveller who will enjoy the destination.
Off Broadway Travel’s Mark Beattie says: “This has been my first time in Malta and I’m really impressed; there’s always been this preconception Malta is for the older clientele but there’s just so much going on for the younger and family market too, both on Malta and on Gozo.”
Plus, when a well-rounded destination such as the Maltese Islands is just a three-hour flight from the UK, there are very few reasons a client would say no to a holiday here.
Book it: Kirker Holidays offers three nights on a bed-and-breakfast basis at the five-star Corinthia Palace with return flights, private car transfers and services of the Kirker Concierge for £798pp, based on a November 2022 departure.
