Sitting in a resplendent drawing room at Minterne House in Dorset during MSC Virtuosa’s first shore excursion on Saturday (22 May), I’m hearing how the home’s ancestral owners, the Digby family, helped Admiral Nelson to an unlikely victory during the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.
Outgunned and pitted against unfavourable odds, innovation and resilience were used to triumph.
To me, the story was incredibly apt given Virtuosa’s launch and MSC Cruises’ return during the first cruise voyage from the UK for more than 400 days.
OK, so cruise ships in 2021 are a bit different to 19th-century warships – far fewer cannons for a start – but the modern-day parallels are there.
Fighting against its own formidable adversary in Covid-19, which ground an industry to a halt, MSC has had to be resourceful and resolute in order to restart operations and lead an industry back towards recovery.
You imagine Nelson would have approved.
Sailing on Virtuosa’s inaugural voyage – from 20-24 May, featuring one call in Portland, Dorset – feels like a privilege and one all onboard can appreciate.
Cruising’s return “means so much to so many” I was told arriving in Southampton port on Thursday morning with a warm and welcoming shore-side team guiding me through the new embarkation process.
It’s important to familiarise yourself with all the requirements as, with regulations and protocols never tighter, you will be denied boarding if not followed correctly.
A key consideration is evidence of a PCR or lateral flow test taken within a 72-hour window prior to boarding or proof of double vaccination. A new – and an equally vital inclusion – is Covid insurance, which all guests must have.
Once onboard, sailing at a government-restricted 1,000-guest capacity until 21 June, the 6,200-passenger Virtuosa makes for a relaxed atmosphere and actually allows the line and its guests to gently reacquaint themselves to life at sea.
Yes, there are understandably changes but they seem to blend into the background and are no more invasive than in our daily lives – from wearing a mask while moving around the ship to socially distanced seating in venues and menus accessed via your smartphone (although paper versions are available).
Like in our regular day-to-day, it may take a little getting used to – I did leave my cabin on two occasions without my mask before quickly and hastily retracing my steps to retrieve it.
All new protocols soon become familiar though, and compliance with the rules has been excellent, with all onboard very attentive to the new necessities involved in the new way of cruising.
“Health is our priority” – MSC’s promise and mantra for this new era – is emblazoned on signage around the ship.
Face masks are replaced daily in your cabin, and the line’s MSC For Me wristband is used for contact tracing should other guests need to be isolated in the event of an outbreak.
Theatre shows are bookable via the MSC For Me app, letting you know how many seats are left, while there are two performances a night to allow passengers the chance to see the show despite the reduced audience.
While on land during our excursion into Dorset, similar rules are put in place such as remaining in your travelling group (or “social bubble”), keeping the same seat throughout and sanitising hands when entering and existing the coach. Trip capacity has also been cut by around half.
Back onboard, when it comes to new features, Virtuosa builds on MSC’s Meraviglia series (the vessel is the second of the line’s larger Meraviglia Plus-class series) with returning favourites.
The LED-domed Galleria displays a Union Jack to mark the special occasion, while the Butcher’s Cut steakhouse and Masters of the Sea pub will no doubt be popular with Brits this summer eager to catch up on missed socialising.
New additions for Virtuosa come via food and beverage and include the intergalactic-themed MSC Starship Club, where guests are kept well watered by Rob, cruise’s first “humanoid robotic bartender”.
Created through years of development by MSC’s tech team, Rob crafts your chosen tipple with pinpoint precision. And while his LED face smiles and winks away, he also interacts with guests’ movement and offers a few one-liners.
I wonder what Nelson would have thought of him?
Two other newcomers for Virtuosa are French/Vietnamese fusion restaurant Indochine, and Mexican and Latin American-inspired Hola! Tacos & Cantina.
Both offer plentiful portions (Indochine’s crispy squid and Beef Bo Bun make a winning dinner combination) and authentic experiences.
This is especially true with Hola! Tacos, which replaces Hola! Tapas on previous MSC ships.
“This isn’t Tex-Mex, it’s not Taco Bell,” smiles MSC’s Jacques Van Staden, vice-president of food and beverage, when I visit. After tacos, enchiladas and a mountain of nachos over lunch, it’s clear he’s on to something.
A passion project for Van Staden is introducing the Mexican spirit mezcal to the masses, with tasting sessions soon to be launched, allowing Brits to turn heel on tequila in favour of its more connoisseur-friendly cousin.
After a few years regularly spent onboard cruise ships and going through the past 15 months firmly on dry land, I have to admit, before sailing, I was so excited and intrigued, but also slightly apprehensive.
Would the experience still be as good? How much would things have to change during the Covid era? Would it feel the same as before?
Reflecting now, any nervousness evaporated within minutes of embarking and it’s remarkable how quickly you slip back into life onboard.
It was a view shared by many guests I spoke to, all from different cruising backgrounds – from veteran voyagers to first-timers. Everyone just wanted to have fun and enjoy themselves and make up for lost time this past year.
I decided to take the advice and in one fantastic evening – showing just what a cruise ship can offer – went from bowling on the ship’s two-lane alley and battling aliens on a 4D arcade game to enjoying a drink inside a cosy pub all within the space of a few decks.
Occupying said cosy corner inside the Masters of the Sea – an establishment you imagine Nelson and crew would have approved of – I look around at other guests doing the same. All with beaming smiles.
In that moment, it certainly felt like a new chapter was being written for cruise holidays and light was flooding the seemingly never-ending tunnel the sector has been trudging its way through.
As we disembarked on Monday morning (24 May) and the industry makes its first tentative moves towards recovery, it’s clear there are plenty more good times on the way soon.
Cruising has returned and more history is left to be written.
