It’s the ultimate travel industry perk: the hallowed fam trip invite.
It was a surreal moment when I got the call from Ultima Antarctic Expeditions, asking if I could get to Cape Town pronto as a spot had just opened on their next trip down south.
My pre-trip assumptions about Antarctica were that it’s not cheap to get to and very cold.
Both correct, but (if you’ll forgive the pun) only the tip of the iceberg.
Here’s what I learnt from a whirlwind few days on the white continent.
Back to basics
This one surprised me, but it’s actually the smallest, simplest things that left the biggest impression.
Walking off the plane to -15°C cold and an icy horizon stretching as far as the eye can see. Experiencing full 24-hour daylight. Hiking over frozen lakes with stunningly beautiful patterns of bubbles frozen into the ice.
Even something as simple as breathing feels different; the air is so crisp it’s possible to see mountain peaks (‘nunataks’ in polar speak) over 100km away. Pausing to take it all in and really appreciate it is worth the trip alone.
Ultima Antarctic Expeditions uses a combination of long-range heavy transport jets and specialised, ski-equipped turboprops designed for polar environments
Unforgettable memories
It’s action attractions that sell trips to clients, and Antarctica has these in droves.
We took a short flight on a Twin Otter plane to one of the emperor penguin colonies, where we spent hours photographing these cute and comical birds sliding around and caring for their young. (They’re incredibly curious, so staying the mandated 15 metres away from them is harder than it sounds).
Another unmissable day trip is the hike to the ice caves, which had us creeping and crawling through a frozen labyrinth (it’s less scary than it sounds).
And those looking for more adventure will want to book the itinerary which includes a trip to the actual South Pole, where the GPS points north no matter which direction you’re facing.
Ultima Antarctic Expeditions offers ice caving, allowing guests to explore sub-glacial tunnels and ice caverns near their camps under the supervision of polar mountain guides
Standing on solid ground
More than 99% of all tourism to Antarctica is by cruise along the peninsula, due to lower costs and clients prioritising marine wildlife viewings (such as whales and seals).
However, staying in camp has the advantages of smaller crowds (Ultima Antarctic camp sleeps a maximum of 22 guests), more activities on offer, and flying directly in rather than tackling the notorious Drake Passage ocean crossing.
Guests are incredibly well looked after at Ultima Oasis Camp, which is a short drive from the airbase and not far from two research bases.
The camp is made up of two Scandinavian-style timber accommodation cabins (each has six bedrooms and two shared bathrooms) as well as a communal dining cabin.
The camp is made up of two Scandinavian-style time accommodation cabins (each has six bedrooms and two shared bathrooms) as well as a communal dining cabin.
Camp managers Greg and Ashleigh were wonderful at making sure our every need was catered for, while the chefs and sommelier continually made the magic happen in the kitchen.
Guides Angel, Gonzalo and Haining oversaw all our day trips – and were always keen for an extra hike or bike ride for those who still had energy by the end of the day. For those who didn’t, the banya sauna and ice bath awaited.
Bedrooms are arranged around communal central spaces. Each cabin includes shared bathroom facilities and a sitting lounge with tea and coffee setups
Help, not harm
Antarctica is one of the most vulnerable ecosystems on the planet, and Ultima Antarctic does everything possible to help protect it and keep it unblemished.
Everything is brought back to South Africa (seriously, even the toilet matter) and the entire camp can be dismantled and packed-up to leave no trace behind.
The penguin colonies are susceptible to sickness or disease, so all kit is rigorously cleaned before visiting them.
Ultima Antarctic began as a sister company to their logistics company, which specialises in bringing scientists to the research bases in Antarctica.
Guests are therefore helping fund science in Antarctica by visiting and may be joined on their six-hour flight to and from the continent by staff and equipment. The Ilyushin heavy cargo jet is one of the louder and more functional aircraft I’ve experienced, but with a proud history of operating in Antarctica for the last 40 years.
Under Antarctic Treaty guidelines and IAATO regulations, humans must maintain a minimum distance of 5 metres (16 feet) from penguins
Adventure for all
The landscapes and experiences may be unforgettable, but this is not an experience reserved for only hardy adventurers (unlike the explorers of yesteryear).
Children aged 12 and over are welcome guests (younger children can also join depending on circumstances) while those with limited mobility issues are also welcomed if possible.
It’s worth noting that plans are at mercy of the weather and can (and probably will) change, so make sure travel plans in Cape Town allow for flexibility.
There are various programmes available between October and February, ranging from short 10- or 36-hour visits, longer 4-day trips (which includes a visit to the emperor penguins) and full 7-to-9-day trips which include a visit to the South Pole.
Cookson Adventures have partnered with Ultima Antarctic to return to the Pole of Inaccessibility this December, more details here. Agents can earn commission by selling this trip, please email explore@cooksonadventures.com for more details.