Exploring my cabin at Colorado’s Taylor River Lodge, I see they’ve thought of everything. Treats in the mini bar, posh toiletries in the bathroom and, on the bedside table, a bank of charging leads – and a bear horn.

“Sound it if one wanders into the camp and get back inside,” I’m told.

When I head for a pre-dinner G&T, I find the fur of one ill-fated intruder decorating the lounge.

Outside, cheers ring out as a bright orange raft carrying passengers flickers between the pine trees, riding the river beyond. Though we’re not far from the ski resort of Crested Butte, it’s summertime and this is a first glimpse of the snow-free Rocky Mountains action we’re here to experience.

Back to nature

The next morning I try not to be distracted by the antics of a blue jay and a chipmunk as I’m introduced to fly-fishing. The rod is reassuringly light for a novice angler like myself. I’m soon teasing the feather fly across the water, line looped under one thumb and my other hand ready to increase the tension. The Lodge’s practice pond starts bubbling with keen fish and, though my reactions oscillate between too slow and too panicky, I manage to pull a shimmering rainbow trout clean of the water before it twists to freedom.

Trout is on many menus in Colorado, where the often innovative cuisine proves a pleasant surprise. We’ve started our tour in mile-high gateway Denver, a foodie, arty city reminiscent of Melbourne. On our first morning we’re fortified by an enormous breakfast at trendy eatery Snooze in the art deco Union Station. In season, clients can take a ski train from here to Winter Park, but with the June sun blazing we instead board an electric tuk-tuk to explore the landmarks with a driver-guide. We end in the RiNo (River North) district for lunch in the heritage Central Market, selecting from oysters, steaks and baked treats. Then we explore the walls of surrounding streets, covered in fabulous murals that are renewed each September during the Crush festival by artists including Shepard Fairey, famous for his Obama Hope poster.

Elsewhere in town, a giant blue bear peeps through the windows of the convention centre and, outside Denver Art Museum, there’s a child climbing the bristles of a huge dustpan and brush. In fact, every development in Denver worth more than $1 million must give 1% of the build cost to public art projects.

That night in the LoHi (Lower Highland) district, after rum cocktails at the hip Mythology Distillery, we dine at The Bindery, a smart but unpretentious restaurant that surprises with its quality and creativity, serving up the likes of smoked rabbit pecan pie with mustard gelato.