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With US borders open to UK travellers again, Abra Dunsby boarded the first flight to New York with British Airways to discover a city as energetic and magnetic as ever
I’ve been in New York for less than an hour and I’m already feeling intoxicated. Granted, that could be thanks to the Manhattan and glass of champagne I enjoyed in the British Airways Concorde Room at 6am before boarding the historic BA001 flight, which departed for New York on 8 November in a dual take-off with Virgin Atlantic to celebrate international borders reopening in the US.
Instead, I’m attributing my dazed feelings of wonder, excitement and jet lag to just being in New York again, where I’m currently taking in the gargantuan flashing billboards of Times Square as car horns blare and cool-as-cucumber New Yorkers hurry past, ignoring the collection of people dressed as Super Mario asking if they want their photo taken.
New York moves so fast, it makes London feel lethargic. And after more than 19 months away, it’s fantastic to feel the energy of this city pumping through my veins once more. It’s not just good to be back – it’s exhilarating.
New York City is happy to have us back too. At JFK airport, we are greeted in arrivals with drinks, people waving flags and cheering, as well as papping local media.
Hours later, as I wander through Central Park chatting to another British journalist and admiring the autumn leaves on trees framed by gleaming skyscrapers, a man driving a horse-drawn carriage clearly aimed at tourists calls out in his best British cockney accent: “Cor blimey, the British are back!”
At a glitzy celebration event held at the Empire State Building that evening, attended by British Airways chief Sean Doyle, NYC & Company chief Fred Dixon, British Consul-General for New York, Emma Wade-Smith, and actress and New York resident Blake Lively, Dixon says he is “delighted” to welcome back British tourists again.
The UK is the destination’s number-one international market, which despite “making up only 20% of the volume accounts for 50% of the spending,” he adds.
Since the announcement of US borders reopening, airlines and tour operators have seen a surge in bookings, with British Airways revealing the number of searches per hour on ba.com increased by 133% for UK to US destinations following the borders reopening announcement on 15 October, compared to the previous week.
The top routes that customers were looking for were New York, Orlando and Miami.
It’s undeniable: Brits continue to love this city, and happily New York loves us back.
Some of Manhattan’s most iconic locations and landmarks, including Central Park, Grand Central Terminal, Fifth Avenue and the Museum of Modern Art (MoMa), are located just a few blocks away from my hotel, the Conrad New York Midtown.
Previously the London New York, this all-suite hotel was rebranded and revamped in 2019, just before the pandemic hit. It features more than 500 suites, as well as a 24-hour fitness centre, on-site restaurant and lounge. The art and design-focused details in the rooms and lobby also make it feel much less corporate than your typical Hilton.
From my apartment-like suite on the 35th floor, I have impressive views of some of the city’s high rises as well as Central Park, which glows in a golden light each morning.
With Broadway also minutes away from the hotel, it seems almost sacrilegious not to see a show – so I’m grateful my itinerary includes a trip to the Imperial Theatre to watch Ain’t Too Proud: The LIfe and Times of the Temptations. While the story of this Motown group’s members and the political backdrop of the segregated south is sometimes tragic and sobering, the singing and award-winning choreography from the talented cast is transfixing and ensures that this musical leaves you feeling joyful.
New York is always evolving, so no matter how many times you visit, there’s always something new to see.
While landmarks such as MoMa and the Empire State Building have been refreshed – with new exhibitions for the former and a $165 renovation for the latter, featuring a new glass-walled indoor observation point – lots of new buildings and attractions have sprung up too.
For city views there’s Summit, which opened in October at the 93-storey One Vanderbilt, offering the highest vantage point in Midtown. It has brilliant views of the Empire State and Chrysler Building, and its glass walls and floor ledges make for excellent photo opps.
For the extra-brave there’s also Edge, located in the wealthy Hudson Yards area, near the northern end of the High Line public park. The angular building’s glass-walled sky deck, the highest in the Western Hemisphere, juts out on one corner, making visitors feel as though they are standing in mid-air. Adrenaline addicts can join its City Climb, where they’ll scale the outdoor staircase and be strapped into a harness so they can lean out from the outdoor platform – and look down if they dare.
Smarter: Clients who visit the city in in low season (January and February) can take advantage of reduced hotel rates, Broadway ticket prices and restaurant deals, as part of the NYC Winter Outing (18 January-13 February).
Better: NYC & Company's (business.nycgo.com/travel-trade) includes industry insights, travel planners, access to webinars and a product directory.
Fairer: Little Island offers accessible pathways, viewpoints and toilets, while the amphitheatre has space for eight wheelchairs (email ticketing@littleisland.org to book a space). It also offers sign language, audio description and captioning for select performances.
A more tranquil experience is visiting new 2.4 acre park Little Island, which stands on 15 photogenic tulip-shaped stilts on the Hudson River and features gardens and art installations.
The park was developed by American mogul Barry Diller and designed by Heatherwick Studios and MNLA in partnership with the Hudson River Park Trust, with a goal of engaging the local community through a programme of free and affordable art, music and theatre.
It repurposes Pier 55, which was destroyed by Hurricane Sandy, making use of the area’s views, which stretch out to Liberty Island and New Jersey. Little Island features its own amphitheatre, which when I visit is being used as a scenic lunch spot by New Yorkers on their work breaks, and where executive director of Little Island, Trish Santini, tells me locals can watch regular performance rehearsals.
“It’s a participatory space,” says Santini, adding that one day she watched a visitor spark a spontaneous communal rendition of Annie’s The Sun'll Come Out Tomorrow. “It’s great to see people thrive here after hard times,” she says.
Michael Wiggins, director of education and community relations, says the park also hopes to offer employment opportunities to local people who have felt the effects of gentrification in the area, which was once the city’s red light district and now glistens with new offices and apartments. “We want to run art workshops and shows for deprived people,” he says.
He tells me that in the ’80s, members of the LGBTQ+ community would come to this area to vogue. “Now they do it right here in this park,” he smiles.
It’s a park for everybody in a city that – among other things – symbolises opportunity, progress and diversity. So it’s great news that New York, a city that has always celebrated its openness, is open to the world once more.
Book it: Gold Medal offers four nights at the Conrad New York Midtown in a one-bedroom suite for £1,469pp based on two sharing, including flights with British Airways. Based on 3 March 2022 departure. goldmedal.co.uk; nycgo.com; britishairways.com
Entry requirements: Proof of vaccination to board a flight is required for everyone aged 18+. Everyone aged 2+ is required to show proof of a negative Covid-19 viral test result taken no more than three days before travel. Those opting to take a self or home test will be required to have the process monitored via video. All passengers are required to provide contact information to airlines before boarding for contact tracing. For more info on requirements visit bit.ly/3C9oa1b
Visas: Visitors to the US must obtain a visa or Esta. For more info visit bit.ly/30ryc0F
Safety: Visitors are required by many restaurants, bars and attractions to show proof of vaccination to enter. Masks are mandatory at Broadway shows.
Getting there: British Airways will fly up to eight times a day from London to New York from December, with fares from from £343 return.
