I know, demand for the USA is down a bit right now. Costs are rising, consumer confidence has been dented, and then there's Donald Trump. It's likely to be a combination of the three.
But Florida appears to be holding its own, with the state recording a 6.6% year-on-year increase in visitation last year. So I recently took the opportunity to visit two destinations I now believe are some of the Sunshine State’s most underrated.
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Located in the most westerly corner of the Panhandle, Panama City Beach and Pensacola are perfectly situated to feature on a Deep South itinerary, or as an extension to clients’ bucket-list Orlando attraction park trips.
“But I don’t want to do a six-hour drive from Orlando!," I hear your customers cry. Well let me tell you, it’s worth it. I picked up an Avis hire car on Orlando’s International Drive and sailed north on an easy, traffic-free route through cinematic swamplands, faith-centric neighbourhoods and expansive farmland – arriving in Panama City Beach in time for sunset.
One of the best places to watch the sunset here is Schooners (pictured, right) – a Gulf Coast institution dubbed “the last local beach club”. But this is no Nikki Beach, with its rustic, wooden interiors, TVs broadcasting ESPN and a distinct, unpretentious atmosphere. Seconds after I perch in a prime window seat, metres away from the sugary, white sand, Executive Chef Konrad Jochum is loading up my table with hushpuppies (deep-fried cornmeal balls) and the most popular dish on the menu: shrimp and cheesy grits. With this hearty Cajun fare and warm Southern hospitality, there’s no mistaking I have arrived in Florida’s Panhandle.
From bed to beach
After dinner at Schooners, I bed down at SpringHill Suites by Marriott, where the highlight of my room on the eighth floor is a very enviable view of the 27-mile-long beach below.
It’s February, so far from the June-August peak season, but it’s warm enough to wander along the sand beneath the beating sun – and this stretch is so peaceful I could count on one hand how many people I pass.
SpringHill Suites by Marriott has a prime beachfront location, so guests can enjoy both the pool and the ocean
Breakfast at Andy’s Flour Power, which is just a 10-minute drive from SpringHill Suites, is the only way to wake up in Panama City Beach. Owner and chef John (pictured, below) – a butcher by trade – relocated from New York to open this diner in 2004, and it’s been a locals’ favourite ever since.
Visitors will find marmalade breakfast martinis (don’t knock ‘em 'til you’ve tried 'em), biscuits and gravy, sausage patties and French toast, all served with big smiles and even bigger coffees. The motto, “we don't do fancy, we do fresh, and you can't fake fresh”, says it all.
Unable to stop myself from overindulging at Andy’s, I feel sluggish on arrival at St Andrew’s State Park, which is one of 175 in Florida, open 365 days a year and accessible for an $8 fee per vehicle, per day. This wild patch of protected land occupies five square kilometres of a coastal spit that’s a haven for wildlife, campers, swimmers and fishing fans.
I decide to shake off that extra slice of French toast with a run around the perimeter. I soon tire; running on soft sand is harder than it looks. It’s good news then, that there are rock pools to explore, sand dunes to laze below and tarmac paths for cycling – plenty to keep visitors occupied for a full day. There’s even a chance to get out on the water in kayaks and on paddle boards, which is a great option for couples and families.
St Andrew's State Park is a top recommendation for outdoor enthusiasts, with everything from cycling to paddle-boarding
Wining and dining
Every active adventure should be paired with an opportunity to unwind. So just a few hours later, after grabbing a fantastically fresh roadside snack at food truck Finns Island Style Grub, I find myself sitting on a lakeside deck with a glass of wine at Duplin Winery.
An musical duo are belting out country classics from a small stage, while some visitors peruse an extensive gift shop laden with homewares; others catch up over their favourite tipple – it’s the perfect spot for people watching.
Have clients celebrating a special occasion?
Firefly is a top choice of restaurant for clients marking a milestone or achievement, or for travellers with plenty of spending money. Its low lighting, white tablecloths and stellar service create an elegant atmosphere that pairs perfectly with exquisitely presented sushi and Mediterranean fare. Meat lovers ordering the pepper crusted stuffed filet mignon will not be disappointed.
My final stop in Panama City Beach is The Pour, a church-run non-profit cafe with cool, contemporary interiors. At first glance it seems like just a normal hipster coffee shop and bakery – evidently frequented by familiar, local faces – but handwritten chalkboards on the walls reveal why it’s so much more than that.
All proceeds from the sale of locally roasted, organic, fairtrade coffee and homemade pastries go to The Ark, a 40-year-old ministry working to combat homelessness and human trafficking in Panama City Beach by providing education, resources and housing. I leave The Pour with a freshly baked banana and chocolate chip loaf in hand, feeling very much humbled by the achievements of this unassuming roadside cafe.
Turn it into a twin-centre
My two-and-a-half-hour drive to Pensacola is an experience in its own right, with the coastal route through Destin and Fort Walton Beach offering ocean views more aquamarine than the Maldives.
On arrival at Oyster Bay Boutique Hotel, I feel an instant lift thanks to the peaceful ambience – earthy furnishings, driftwood decorations and warm smiles at reception ensure guests feel relaxed from the moment they step through the white-wood French doors.
Oyster Bay Boutique Hotel is just steps away from Pensacola's Historic District and popular Palafox Street
With a few hours to kill before I attend my first-ever ice hockey game at the Pensacola Bay Center, I take a slow stroll west through the city’s historic district. Behind white picket fences sit well-preserved Florida Cracker houses that have visitors feeling like they’ve stepped back into 19th-century America.
While many of them look residential, in reality, they’re mini museums and cultural sites featured on a walking tour that for the most part is self-guided, unless coinciding with a $12 guided departure from Tivoli High House.
An afternoon spent exploring Lavalle House, the Pensacola Museum of Art (housed in a former prison) and an 1890s streetscape in the Museum of Commerce is the ideal antidote to modern life. For visiting families, the Pensacola Children’s Museum is an essential stop, too.
Emerging via a pit stop at Pensacola Bay Brewery onto the more contemporary, French-feel Palafox Street (pictured, left) I find Bodacious, which is a locally run cafe, coffee roastery, kitchenware store and olive oil shop all rolled into one. Powerless to resist tasters of the spicy harissa, fruity mango and honey ginger oils, I come away with none of the above and – though all incredibly tasty – instead opt for the best-selling garlic and pesto oils due to their versatility.
It turns out the tasting is the perfect precursor to dinner at the nearby Global Grill, a smart restaurant serving a blend of tapas and New American cuisine. Melt-in-your-mouth, marinated tuna cubes set the bar high as the first dish, but the subsequent New Orleans style BBQ Gulf shrimp and smoked gouda and bacon Brussels sprouts are just as moreish. Looking around at my fellow diners, many of them appear to be friends with the serving staff and I detect an overwhelming sense of community that I am beginning to notice is a defining characteristic of the Panhandle.
Suggest a sundowner...
Head to Jaco’s Bayfront Bar & Grille to sip on one of the harbourside restaurant and bar’s signature cocktails while watching the sun set over the yachts in the marina. Recommend the Grapefruit Basil Smash – it hits the spot!
All in good sport
After dinner it’s just a five-minute drive that sits between me and the Pensacola Ice Flyers. The ice hockey team is tonight taking on the Knoxville Ice Bears in front of a crowd of up to 8,000 military personnel (it’s “military night”, so is exclusively for serving individuals and their families).
The atmosphere in the stadium is electric. Chart toppers belt from giant speakers, spotlights whizz from one end of the arena to the other, and a Mexican wave surges through the cheering crowd.
As the game kicks off it’s the speed that surprises me – these players can reach up to 30mph and this game is a lively one; I have to repeatedly swish my gaze from left to right and back again to keep up with the action. A fist fight breaks out on the ice and, to my astonishment, it appears to be part of the entertainment.
The Pensacola Ice Flyers play ice hockey at the Pensacola Bay Center near the destination's Downtown
Despite the brutality, this is a family-friendly activity. During one of the two intermissions, children and adults alike lob foam pucks onto the ice in a competitive game of target practice before the game resumes.
By the end of the night, it’s the Ice Bears who emerge victorious, but Pensacola’s loss can’t dampen my spirits or take away the thrill of the evening – this is one Saturday night I won’t be forgetting in a hurry.
For a history fix
On my final day in the Panhandle, I venture over Pensacola Bay to the 40-mile-long coastal spit that makes up Santa Maria Island. First fuelling up on grilled grouper and a Pensacola-signature “bushwacker” cocktail – which I would describe as a boozy milkshake – I spend a little time checking out the surf shops, clothes boutiques and beach bars before setting my sights on Fort Pickens.
The locally run Fun Store is a treasure trove of activity options, with bikes, surf boards, paddleboards, kayaks, beach wheelchairs and seaside essentials all available for hire or purchase. I, of course, opt for the quirkiest mode of transportation – a three-wheeled Scoot Coupe, which if you don’t know, looks like it belongs in the Mario Kart video game (pictured, right). Much to my dismay its top speed means it’s not meant for racing, but the journey is a laugh nonetheless, and the little vehicle gets me from A to B.
B in this case is Fort Pickens, one of four military forts that defended Pensacola from enemy advances in the 1800s. Today it is a tourist attraction, with an abundance of eerie tunnels, hidden rooms and mighty canons to explore for a fee of $15 per person. There is also a small gift shop to purchase souvenirs.
If able, recommend visitors climb the battlement to take in panoramic views and cast their eyes over the water to the naval air station that is home to the iconic Blue Angels. This squadron of jets is famous worldwide for its impressive acrobatic displays, with many locals telling me October and November are the best months to visit Pensacola because the pilots practice overhead – along with the fact this season promises warm weather and lower rates.
The drive out to Fort Pickens is a scenic one, with beaches and ocean as far as the eye can see
I’m not lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the Angels this time so pull myself away from the historical fort for my final meal at The Fish House, which is a rustic, dockside dining destination that’s been known for its high-quality, fresh seafood for more than two decades.
It’s not long before I discover this is Southern fare at its absolute best. The baked oysters knock my socks off and I join the one million (and counting) people who have ordered – and fallen in love with – the restaurant’s signature dish, Grits A Ya Ya.
My decision means I start my Panhandle trip exactly as I started it; indulging in spiced jumbo Gulf shrimp and gouda grits that are nothing short of extraordinary, with a heart warmed by Florida’s undeniably Southern hospitality.
America As You Like It (americaasyoulikeit.com /020 8742 8299) offers a two-week Florida holiday from £2,545 per person, including flights with British Airways and American Airlines from Gatwick to Orlando, returning from Pensacola (via Miami) to Heathrow. Based on seven nights at the Grand Hotel Orlando at Universal Boulevard, three nights at Springhill Suites in Panama City Beach and four nights at Oyster Bay Boutique Hotel in Pensacola (all on a bed and breakfast basis), plus Universal Orlando Three Park Adventure tickets and seven days’ fully inclusive car hire, picking up in Orlando and dropping off in Pensacola.
LEARN MORE ABOUT FLORIDA ON THE TTG VISIT FLORIDA SELLING GUIDE